Alan Williams swims among stalactites and stalagmites in underground rivers and flooded caves of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. This dramatic environment was dry 10,000 years ago. At the end of the Ice Age, rising water filled the limestone caves, resplendent with gnarled columns and radiating tunnels. Cenotes, or freshwater sinkholes, are part of the limestone honeycomb. "I always wanted to be an astronaut. For me, cave diving is the closest thing to being on another planet. I see things that very few people have seen or go where maybe no one has been before," says Williams, a diver with 15 years of experience. Many cenotes lie hidden in the jungle, so divers begin their escapades with a hike through dense foliage. Mules or donkeys carry the equipment. "A lot of times, just getting to dive sites is kind of an adventure." Adding to the eeriness, the spring-fed pools are covered with jade-colored duckweed. "Most of the caves are very shallow because the Yucatan Peninsula is close to sea level. We may go only 30 feet deep so we can stay two to three hours," says Williams, contrasting this to deeper dives that require long descents and ascents. "The pools hold crystal-clear, perfect water. It's warm and you see sights that are literally of another world," says the Maryville diving instructor. Eons ago, some of these caves were occupied by animals and prehistoric Indians, he relates. "We'll see burial sites, fire pits, pottery, tools and animal and human remains. These places are protected, so they are left undisturbed." After they surface, divers enjoy great camaraderie discussing what they saw. However, while in the water, they are in a silent world where they communicate by hand and light signals. "It's quiet. It's peaceful. All you hear is the rhythm of your own breathing. It's very relaxing." For scuba divers, the appeal of the Yucatan Peninsula is twofold: caves and reefs. The aquatic wonderland along the Caribbean and Gulf coasts make it a top destination, rivaled by the Bahamas and Belize. Cave divers also gravitate to the "blue holes" of these tropical locales. "Typically a blue hole is in the middle of the ocean. Prior to the Ice Age it was a dry cave with fresh spring water, but when the ocean level rose, water just covered it up," says Williams. The Great Blue Hole at Ambergris Caye, Belize, is among the best known. The world's deepest blue hole is in the pristine waters surrounding Long Island, The Bahamas. | | Along with stalactites and stalagmites, ocean caves feature coral and marine life. "It's the best of both worlds. Beautiful creatures live in the cavern zone, the area where natural daylight penetrates. It's not uncommon for fish to follow your lights and go into the cave with you." Blue holes require carefully honed skills because of the ebb and flow of tides. "They go from springing forth water, or flowing, to siphoning, or sucking water. It is something you have to plan for." These challenges and the beauty of the marine environment keep the 33-year-old diver bound to this fascinating endeavor. "I have always liked the water," says Williams, who grew up enjoying the many water sports popular in East Tennessee. "My parents bought me a diving class for high school graduation. "It was easy for me and I had no fear of anything involved in the diving," he recalls. "I went to UT, but that went totally by the wayside when something this exciting took over." His teacher was David Rhea, a pioneer in cave diving. When Rhea moved to the Gainesville, Fla., area where there's an extensive cave network, his ardent student bought the shop. The business located just off Highway 129 teaches swimming lessons and all types of diving classes. It also coordinates trips to the world's top dive sites. Williams takes students to Florida's freshwater caves for training. "The caves in Florida are not as spectacular as those in Mexico. They are part of the aquifer, so they have always been underwater, as opposed to Mexico's caves that were dry at one time." Though the Florida caves don't have stunning drip formations, they feature sculpted formations where water has carved the stratified rock layers. While Williams heaps superlatives on Mexico's and Florida's caves, he shuns East Tennessee caves. "Local cave diving sites are not the safest or most enjoyable," says Williams. Most of the caves were filled when lakes were formed; they do not have currents to keep them clean. Sediment buildup can be several feet deep. "You don't actually have to touch it to stir it up. Your body just moving over stirs it up, and it becomes very difficult to see. It's a very unstable environment," says Williams. |
