PERHENTIAN ISLANDS, Malaysia (20 June 2005) -- Getting to paradise sure isn't easy. Three flights, one train, a kombi, a boat and 24 long hours after leaving my front door I arrived, exhausted, on the island of Perhentian Besar off the north-east coast of Malaysia. Chewed up and spat out by global travel, but worth every airline meal along the way to be dropped on a beach of white coral sand lapped by azure water. Quieter than the islands of Thailand, but more accessible than some of the Indonesian archipelago, the islands off the east coast of Malaysia enjoy that wonderful balance between developed enough to ensure a comfortable holiday, but not yet overrun with UK and American backpackers on their gap year. The Perhentian Islands (made up of Perhentian Besar and Kecil — Big and Small) lie inside a protected marine park, where fishing, trawling and pretty much anything that's likely to damage the coral reefs is strictly prohibited. This is just as well, as it's the underwater paradise that attracts thousands of tourists in the know to this corner of Asia each year. Blowing bubbles As with most resorts on these islands, the Perhentian Island Resort, where we were to chill out for the next few days, enjoys its own house reef, allowing for some great inshore snorkelling. Bring along your own mask, snorkel and fins if you can; it'll save you about R15 a day in hiring costs. Clearly marked off by buoys, as the waters around the islands can be busy with boats zipping back and forth, the nearby coral reefs will make all but the most hardened divers gasp with amazement. Fin just 50 metres off the beach and you're likely to find yourself eye-to-eye with a giant Leatherback turtle. Head off towards the rocky point and you'll be as close to 'Finding Nemo' as you could hope for. Black tip reef sharks flit on the edge of your vision (don't worry, they're harmless), while tropical fish of every description fill the waterworld beneath you. And with 30° water you can float there all day if you want to… if that's your plan then a 'second skin' rash vest is a good idea for keeping the sun off while you're out there. Jungle trekking is another popular island activity, but be prepared for steaming humidity and relentless mozzies in the thick tropical forest. Thankfully none of the walks are too long (a few hours at most), and the sweaty toil of clambering through the gnarled roots and heavy foliage of the forest will make that next dip in the sea all the more rewarding. Despite the heat, the incredible lushness of the forest along with the chance to spot forest monkeys, flying lemurs and a myriad of birdlife makes a jungle trek well worthwhile. At only 15 ringgit (R25) it's also one of the cheapest activities you're likely to find on these islands. Slightly more expensive, but cheap compared to many other tourist destinations, is the scuba diving. Although none of the diving in this part of Malaysia comes close to the 600 metre walls off Sipidan (widely recognised as one of the best dive sites in the world) to the south, but for novice divers looking for a range of diving on great coral reefs then the islands off the east coast of Malaysia are the place to be. | | Perhentian Islands - Besar & Kecil Range of resorts The other attraction of this area is the range of resorts on offer. From our middle-of-the-range hotel on Perhentian Besar to the hippie beach huts on neighbouring Kecil, there's something to appeal to all tastes and pockets. Of the 15-odd resorts on the larger island of Redang (an hour's boat ride from Besar), Laguna Redang follows the familiar mould of the large Mauritian resorts. With over 200 rooms on offer accommodating up to 600 people, it's a resort that's big on facilities, but low on character. Great for families and unadventurous travellers, it also boasts one of the best-equipped dive centres in the area, allowing access to some of the spectacular diving in and around this rocky island. If you're looking for something a bit more idyllic and don't mind doing away with the resort shop and health spa, then the laid-back island of Lang Tengah (pronounced Lung-teng- ghaa) is where you want to head for. The picture of paradise Blue Coral Resort on Lang Tengah is the very picture of a tropical paradise; coral white sands, coconut palms leaning over the beach at a respectable 45 degrees, local boats bobbing at anchor and crystal clear waters lapping the shore. Built in the traditional Malaysian style it's an excellent place to kick back for a few days. As if that wasn't enough it also has one of the best house reefs around. No giant leatherbacks here, but to make up for it you'll find huge mushrooms of blue coral, with large Humphead Parrotfish and the odd pufferfish cruising about. Keep an eye out for more of those shy reef sharks too… Regular boat snorkelling trips (about R50) from all of the above resorts allow you to explore the more out-of-the-way coral reefs, and although there's no guarantee of having the reef to yourself they're usually big enough to accommodate the crowds of visitors who come to enjoy the colourful marine life. And that's really the reason to come to this part of the world. There are great beaches, yes, as well as exotic jungles and beautiful coastlines, but it's the undersea vistas that'll really knock your flippers off. Whether you're a scuba diver looking for accessible, enjoyable diving or a card-carrying beach bum looking for a bit of underwater action, you'll find what you're looking for off the east coast of Malaysia. SOURCE - iAfrica |
