KOH TAO, Thailand (19 Nov 2005) -- Nervous tension thickens the air in this small, sauna of a room situated near the shores of Koh Tao, a remote island off the coast of Thailand. Each of us is splayed out on large pillow cushions in a second-floor teaching room that overlooks the Gulf of Thailand a stone's throw away. The laughter of strangers echoes off the walls, with inquisitive chitchat about countries of origin and details of past travels. An Englishman in an ill-fitting shirt appears in the doorway and the voices fall silent. We quickly remember what's brought us all together and made our stomachs flutter the past couple hours. he introduces himself and scans the new recruits as he meanders to the front of the room. As we find out, efficiency and speed are foreign words here. We are all "fresh off the boat," referring to the six-hour ferry ride it takes to get to this adventurer's playland. Each of us is drawn by the image of floating effortlessly past the spectacular coral reefs and variety of tropical fish that have built Koh Tao's reputation as a scuba diving mecca. "For the next four days, I will be your Scuba God," says the animated scuba instructor, his arms spread out to either side as we form our first impressions. "And you all will be my little mermaids and mermen." It's his idea of an icebreaker and his energetic delivery is a dead-giveaway that it's his favourite. The boisterous 39-year-old doesn't much resemble a god, with a six-pack he's failed to recoup for more than a decade, and a ratty red hat to protect his balding head from the sun. Even scuba instructor seems a stretch. But on this tropical island, where the relaxing scuba culture permeates all aspects of life, he is the most experienced instructor -- a title somewhat akin to royalty. He's watched thousands of Westerners flock to this rocky nugget of land each year, unloading in increasingly large numbers off the ferries servicing the island. But it hasn't always been this way. Koh Tao the emerging tourist hotspot is a relatively recent development in the annals of time. Until the early 1900s, few humans had ever put a footprint in the sand. Just two decades ago, the thought of electricity was more wild dream than potential reality. Its remoteness, nestled approximately 70 kilometres from shore in the choppy waters of the Gulf of Thailand, kept it a secret paradise for thousands of years. Its history is young, development slow, and natural beauty mostly unspoiled. Thanks to a few adventurous backpackers about 20 years ago, Koh Tao was "discovered" by the rest of the world. Word spread about its natural beauty and coral riches. Both construction and entrepreneurial start-ups have been in hyper-drive ever since, trying to catch up with demand. The island's history as a political prison from 1933-47 now seems centuries ago, with few reminders. The same goes for its more recent past as a port for fishermen and large plot of farm land for settlers that arrived and worked the land soon after the prisoners received a royal pardon in 1947. But the hospitality and construction industries have built the current economy. Dozens of scuba shops, hostels and hotels dot the waterfront. More secluded, upscale, scuba resorts located in their own private bays are also an option. My girlfriend Erin and I are swayed by an impressive sales pitch aboard our ferry trip to pursue our Open Water diving certificate. The dive shop is situated a couple kilometres up the coast from the ferry dock on the long strip of white sand known as Sairee Beach. This is the most developed area of Koh Tao, which measures 21 square km in size. Areas to the north, south and west are more rugged with rocky cliffs and bays shaped by the pounding elements. The centre of the island crests and falls in wooded mountains that hold spectactular views for the more adventurous. A single paved road runs north to south, distributing traffic, people and goods. Scooters and taxi pickups make up most of the traffic, few willing to take the rough dirt roads to the more remote outposts. Small water taxis are the main mode of transportation to and from the secluded spots. A busy brick boardwalk connects the western beaches and bustles with energy day and night. It's bordered on either side by a variety of bakeries, shaded restaurants and bars, Thai massage parlours, Internet cafes, and shops selling knock-off DVDs, CDs, sunglasses and clothes. | | Life is an interesting melange of East and West, with English the dominant language. The crystal-clear waters, abundant sea life and growing amenities combine with Thailand's weak currency to beckon all kinds of travellers from around the world. Once there, they can choose from a number of activities to stay active or succumb to the humidity and flop into a hammock or onto a beach and bake while reading. Our dive course left little time to explore above ground, so we extended our stay and found what the island had to offer. It included rock climbing, Thai boxing, hiking, kayaking, wake boarding and even sand boarding. For the less adventurous, but still inquisitive, there were cooking and massage lessons. Of course, the real draw of "Turtle Island," as it translates into English, lay in the sparkling waters. We swallowed hard on the unnatural feeling of breathing underwater to scour the spectacular ecosystems. Schools of fish darted uncannily in unison and the sun's rays penetrated the surface to bring out the fluorescent colours of the coral just a couple calm meters below. We twisted and turned through the popular dive spots of Twin Peaks and White Rock to take in the vistas, always on the lookout for sharks. Our scuba instructor had allayed our fears of the mystic underwater creatures and told us to count ourselves lucky if we managed to see one gracefully swimming in its habitat. He had been equal parts forceful and funny in making sure we knew our equipment well enough to enjoy the new world around us without panic. Few will forget that first forced breath underwater or revelation at the abundance of colour found in the most obscure places. One thing's for sure, we won't soon forget this colourful place the locals have nicknamed "Paradise Island," even if it too is nestled away in an obscure location. IF YOU GO: Travel: You can get to Koh Tao very cheaply, but you get what you pay for. Regular bus and minibus travel by land can leave you a little disoriented and uncomfortable, which can be part of the experience if you're the adventurous type. If not, you can arrange flights as far as Koh Samui, a nearby island. Koh Tao is just a ferry ride from there. Lodging: The choices range from cheap to upscale, though even the most expensive resort is reasonable when you factor in the conversion rate. It's a good idea to pay the little extra for air conditioning, or at least a room with a fan, or you'll sweat too much to enjoy yourself. Food: Every resort has its own restaurant and numerous other choices line the waterfront, offering a wide sampling of meals from around the globe. There are some gem restaurants to be found, so peruse away. Tips: Take a powerful sunscreen to keep burns from ruining your trip because the shops mostly sell tanning lotions that don't protect your skin very well. Explore the island but be careful about renting scooters and motorcycles because the roads aren't the best and you're responsible for any damage. Taxis can be had for cheap and will take you almost any place. SOURCE - Edmonton Journal |
