BELIZE CITY, Belize (1 Apr 2006) -- For years, tour organizer Lascelle Tillett has been leading nature lovers to see rare Morelet's crocodiles, stately Jabiru storks, and other wonders in this tiny Caribbean nation. So it came as something of a shock when he ferried a small party to a spot near Belize's coral reef two years ago and encountered a floating mob. "There must have been 600 people in the water, and the boats were lined up like cars," said Tillett, director of S&L Travel & Tours. "We didn't see a single ray or shark." Such aquatic traffic jams are becoming more frequent - and contentious - in laid-back Belize since the arrival of a new species of visitor: the cruise-ship passenger. The number of big boats stopping here has increased by nearly five times since 2000, making Belize the fastest-growing tourist port in the Caribbean. Last year, more than 800,000 cruise-ship visitors disembarked in this gritty seafront city, according to the local tourist board. That's nearly triple the nation's population of 280,000. The surge has been a boon to taxi drivers, hair braiders, and other bootstrap entrepreneurs who, like seagulls behind a tuna boat, flock to the waterfront when passengers come ashore. Ship visitors poured an estimated $65 million into the local economy in 2004. That's nearly one-fifth of all tourist dollars spent in Belize, up from virtually nothing five years ago. Investors are taking aim at these sightseers, whose tight itineraries leave them little more than half a day to see Belize. Entertainment is proliferating, including air-boat rides, a casino, and a crocodile farm. Tour operators have purchased fleets of vans and buses that burn rubber to the nearest Mayan ruins. "When I see an opportunity, I grasp it," said David Gegg, who has formed a tour company called Cruise Solutions Belize Ltd. "You have to adapt." But other longtime operators say the herd mentality is at odds with Belize's carefully crafted niche as an ecotourism paradise. Overnight guests, many of whom spend weeks scuba diving, kayaking, and exploring the archaeological sites of this nation the size of Massachusetts, provide most of Belize's tourism revenue. Hoteliers say those visitors want solitude and unspoiled wilderness, not hordes of Disneyland-style day trippers swarming the pyramids and scaring the wildlife. The fear is that big-spending adventure travelers will no longer come if Belize is too welcoming of mass tourism, particularly if it draws more and more cruise-ship visitors, who have gained a reputation here as skinflints. "Honey, look what I found!" Belize cruise ship tourist with marine wildlife souvenir destined for home coffee table display. | | "Say 'cheese' gang--OK, now let's get a move on! Remember, we've only got 15 minutes for the Eco Bob crocodile wrestling, then we've got to hustle over to Hugh Parkey for the Eco Dance with the Dolphins show and then back to town for the PADI Discover Shark Feeding eco tank dive." The average cruise passenger spends about $45 in Belize, less than half the Caribbean average, according to the Belize Tourism Board. Some experts say that's largely because Belize lacks modern docking facilities that would allow passengers to spend more time ashore. At present, ships must anchor offshore and "tender" passengers into Belize City on smaller vessels, a costly and time-consuming process for these floating cities of 3,000 to 4,000 people. But some hoteliers say that many cruises are priced for bargain hunters looking for freebies. Maria Otero, chief executive director of the Radisson Fort George Hotel and Marina near the cruise-ship village, said passengers routinely strolled into her facility to use the bathroom and take a dip in the pool, then complain about the cost of refreshments. She said she had to draw the line at their bringing in their own booze and snacks. Others are worried about the environmental impact. Although cruise travelers each pay a $7 visitor's tax, $1.40 of which is earmarked for conservation, the nation's coral reefs and more heavily trafficked wilderness areas are showing signs of wear and tear from the increased visitation, said Anna Dominguez-Hoare, executive director of the Belize Audubon Society. "It's not compensating for the damage," she said of the tax. "And a lot of damage could be irreversible so quickly." Belize isn't the only place feeling the strain. Three of the Caribbean's most popular ports - Cozumel, Mexico; the Cayman Islands; and St. Maarten - have seen cruise visitor counts surge more than 70 percent over the last five years. Locals and overnight visitors around the region complain of traffic snarls, jammed restaurants and booked-up attractions when the ships blow into town. SOURCE - LA Times |
