CORN ISLANDS, Nicaragua (17 Sep 2008) — Nicaragua's Corn Islands are a veritable paradise fringed by white-sand beaches, undisturbed coral and the refreshing turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea. They are a snorkeller's and diver's dream. Not yet jaded by mass tourism, the island people are warm and genuine, and the blend of Spanish and Creole cultures makes local cuisine distinctive and a delight. Big Corn Island is located 80 kilometres from the mainland, and while it is serviced by a ferry from Bluefields, Nicaragua, it's easier to fly in from either Managua or Bluefields. Once there, travellers can hop a panga boat to Little Corn Island. The trip takes less than an hour. The islands were first inhabited by the Kukra Indians who were known for cannibalism. Hence, the islands were called Skeleton Islands. In the 16th-century conquest, the Spanish "discovered" the islands. Then British, French and Dutch pirates, as well as Miskito Indians, used them as a safe haven and supply station. Because the islands were used to store supplies, including meat, which is "carne" in Spanish, the British, who used the islands in the 17th century, pronounced the word like "corn" and the name stuck. This little slice of paradise in the middle of nowhere is attempting to build up its tourism industry but it is still mostly undiscovered by the horde of North American travellers seeking shelter from winter's fury. While Nicaragua has experienced political turmoil -- the 1979 Sandinista revolution and the subsequent counter-revolution by the U.S.-backed Contra fighters -- the country has enjoyed stability for several years. As well, there are no images of that part of its past in the Corn islands, which are isolated by their distance from the mainland. It's no exaggeration to say that on some beaches you will literally be the only person around. It's like being washed up on a desert island. On other beaches, young children might be playing a casual game of baseball, where driftwood serves as the bat. It's such a friendly place that children will eagerly approach you and want to know all about you and where you come from. Aside from lounging on the beach, swimming, snorkelling or diving in its crystal-clear waters, it's easy to hire a local fisherman to take you out onto the water for the day ($5 to $10 US per hour). Just stand near the wharf and you'll be offered a tour. Big Corn Island is ringed by a paved road, and it's a great outing to walk around the island, stopping to splash in the water, chat with the locals or buy a refreshing drink from a roadside bar. Little Corn is even more idyllic. The smaller island has no road, just a sandy footpath. Locals use wheelbarrows to cart their goods around. A full day can be spent exploring the island by walking the footpath, taking in the ocean vistas, enjoying a scrumptious Creole-style shrimp lunch at a seaside table or hiking the Old Lighthouse Hill. | | Not yet jaded by mass tourism: Corn Islands. Accommodation ranges from four-star luxurious to rustic: From a high of about $100 US in a luxury room (Casa Canada on Big Corn) to $80 for a cabana (El Paraiso on Big Corn), to a low of $15 for a simple beachside hut (Grace's Cool Spot on Little Corn). Both American dollars and Nicaragua's currency, the cordoba, are accepted. The islands are abundant in seafood and Caribbean-style home cooking. A local favourite is the "rundown" dish: a generous portion of fish, vegetables and coconut milk. It is such a feast that it needs to be ordered a day in advance at most restaurants. Tasty coconut bread is usually served. Menu items include rotis, curries or even pizza and chicken dishes. The nightlife is subdued on Little Corn. On a recent evening, the most happening place on the island was a tiny beachside bar where the locals watched a baseball game on a 21-inch TV set between two Nicaraguan teams. Big Corn has a few night spots, including a bar at Mrs. Morgan's Mini Hotel, which also serves tasty dishes, Nico's, an ocean-bar with dance floor where you can get jiggy with it to reggae or Caribbean-style music. It's also enjoyable to walk the main road at dusk, visiting with the islanders and stopping for an ice cream in the local parlour. Generally, the people who visit Corn Islands are backpackers and baby-boomers eager for a destination that hasn't been spoiled by mass tourism. This is the place where you thumb a ride and then get invited over for dinner by the guy who stops to give you a lift. You'll be treated like family. |
