LORD HOWE ISLAND, Australia (11 Nov 2004) -- It boasts the southernmost coral reef in the world, surrounded by marine parks showcasing 90 species of coral and 500 species of fish, and it's inaccessible to day trippers. Its white beaches are near-deserted and its water is crystal clear. Its roads are tarred, but there are few vehicles. At any time it will be populated by only 300 local residents and 400 guests. There's no need to lock your room and you can park your bike at the side of the road while you wander off into the rainforest. Children can roam free. There are no snakes, no sand flies and no stingers in the sea, apart from the occasional bluebottle. Hotel bars usually operate on an honour system and the local police constable's most onerous task seems to be supervising the occasional disco. His police dog rides around in the back of an open truck and is as friendly as everyone else. With 6km of reefs, banyan trees, subtropical rainforest, moderate temperatures, teeming bird life and no cellphones, Lord Howe, 550km off Australia's east coast, is close to paradise. Declared a World Heritage Site in 1982, the island - which is only accessible by plane, from Sydney or Brisbane - was discovered by accident in 1788 by a ship taking convicts to a settlement at the larger Norfolk Island nearby. There was no evidence of any previous occupancy, but Lord Howe became a convenient reprovisioning stop for seafarers after wild pigs were released to breed there. They've now disappeared and the only form of animal life is the cows, which produce fresh milk, butter and cream for the island's few shops. Barely 2km at the widest point and 11km long, Lord Howe is easily walkable - except for the one end, where it rises steeply to the volcanic peaks of Mt Lidgbird and 875m Mt Gower, off limits to all but the really fit. You can amble along the roads, stroll on the beach, get serious with some bushwalking, or hire a bicycle and take off at a leisurely pace. For the more adventurous there's also scuba diving, hang-gliding, kayaking and windsurfing, and locals paddle to the outer reef to surf. A nine-hole golf course and conducted nature walks, tennis coaching and scuba lessons offer other energetic alternatives. But most visitors seem content to pack picnic lunches and go looking for birds like providence petrels, emerald ground doves, sooty terns and masked boobies, or snorkel along the reef. A couple of areas are closed to fishermen, like Ned's Beach and the Hole, where fish teem to be fed with hunks of bread, but fishing in other areas - from beach or charter boats - is highly productive. A bit like, really, shooting fish in a barrel (although spearfishing is not allowed). | | Ball's Pyramid - 552m (1811ft) Kingfish, trevally and sea mullet are abundant and a lot find their way on to the table in the hotels. About 23km south of the island, Ball's Pyramid rises sheerly from the sea. At 552m (1811ft), it's the highest single rock in the world and an obvious attraction for scuba divers and fishermen. If the day's outing there is too many hours spent in a boat, take instead one of the half-day trips in a boat to snorkel, dive or fish closer to the island. Or just grab a book, park off on the beach and think about dinner. I did. How to get there: QantasLink has flights from Sydney, Brisbane and Coffs Harbour several times a week. Best time to go: It can be very windy in July and August. September to May is fine to hot, and sea temperatures rise from December to March. Where to stay: Accommodation is mostly family operated - sometimes by 6th-generation islanders - and ranges from simple guesthouses and self-catering cottages to small hotels frequented by tour groups. SOURCE - IOL |
